Buckhorn Exchange

1000 Osage, Denver, CO - (303) 534-9505

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Posted By Michael Stern on August 9, 2008 6:17 PM

The Buckhorn Exchange is a sure-enough tourist attraction. Holder of Colorado liquor license #1 and the oldest restaurant in Denver, it is outfitted with antique firearms and furniture (including tables with little nooks underneath to park your belly gun), and hung with a dazzling menagerie of some five hundred game animal trophies shot by former owner Shorty Zietz and his family.

While many customers do come to gape, there are plenty of regulars for whom the Buckhorn Exchange is simply a good place for a half-pound hamburger. Much of the menu is devoted to such ostentatiously Old-West cuisine as Rocky Mountain oysters (deep fried sliced testicles), bison, elk, and rattlesnake, but the steak menu is impressive … and impressively expensive. We paid $49 for a T-bone that the menu billed as prime, and it was indeed a beauty – extra-thick and super-juicy. However, its primeitude was less than impressive; we've tasted choice beef more infused with protein savor. New York strip loins are available in sizes that feed from four to six people. The big boy, a full five pounds, goes for $170. That includes your choice of side dish and a salad.

The good dessert is a big serving of hot crumb-topped apple pie topped with cinnamon rum sauce.

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