Balaton

13133 Shaker Square, Cleveland, OH - (216) 921-9691

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Posted By Michael Stern on August 13, 2007 11:09 AM

Tables are bare wood and place mats are paper, but a meal at Balaton is Old-World elegant. Located in a storefront that was once a men's clothing store, this beacon of great Hungarian food originally opened on Buckeye Road in 1964. The current location, since 1997, is a lovely, well-decorated space that has the feel of a long-standing European cafe. It is family-run, and the day Jane and I ate there, some of the children were sitting at a back table doing homework, occasionally taking a break to help their elders bus tables.

Meals are abundant (half-orders of most items are available), but it is not quantity that sets Balaton apart. The food is spectacularly good. Wiener schnitzels are crunch-crusted and moist inside; paprikash (chicken or veal) is brightly spiced and luxurious; goulash is comfort-food supreme. I was especially smitten with Hungarian Lecso, a gorgeous length of smoked sausage served atop a stew of yellow peppers, tomatoes, and onions. And the potato pancakes? Fantastic! They arrive hot and crisp, the freshly-shredded spuds shot through with a subtle pepper kick. Chunky apple sauce comes on the side.

Desserts include a classic multi-layer dobos tort, flaky strudel, and palascinke, which are slim crepes rolled around apricot or poppy-seed filling.

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