Bette's Oceanview Diner

1807 4th Street, Berkeley, CA - (510) 644-3230

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Posted By Michael Stern on October 6, 2009 8:25 AM

I tend to be skeptical about retro restaurants, diners in particular. Even if their heart is in the right place, all too often the food is not. A couple of trips to Bette's disabused me of my prejudice. Here is a modern restaurant with classic values ... and really good pancakes. I don't mean the special souffle pancakes (which are oven-baked, and terrific); I am referring to the regular buttermilk pancakes, usually available in a special flavor each day. For my first visit, around Christmas, the day's pancake (and waffle) was egg nog. Mmm-good. The extra egginess was quite subtle, adding an intangible richness to the cakes, all the better when drowned with the pitcher of real maple syrup provided. I also had an egg nog waffle, which I didn't like as much as Bette's regular waffle, which is the crisp, thin-tread type I continually seek. Somehow, the egg nog diminished its crispness.

Other breakfast deliciocities included some of the best scrapple I have had anywhere, including the Delaware Valley. Part of a "Philadelphia breakfast" with poached eggs, it is made from pork butt and hock meat, cornmeal, sage, and plenty of pepper, and sliced thick enough that while the outside gets nice and crisp, the interior virtually melts into nothing but flavor.

For my return breakfast, I got more pancakes, but this time savory ones: Bette's potato pancakes, coarse grated and redolent of spuddy flavor, grilled to a crisp and served with extraordinary apple sauce. A taste of heaven! I look forward to returning to this fine diner for lunch some day, but if all I ever eat at Bette's in the future is breakfast, I shall be a happy man.

Both times I visited, I arrived really early and was by myself, so had no problem finding a counter seat with a great view of the kitchen staff at work. Beware, though, Bette's is famous, and famously crowded. So at most normal meal times, you should expect to wait.

Overall Rating

Pancakes

Macaroons

Chocolate Espresso Twinkie

Waffle

Home Fries

Huevos Rancheros

Fruit Salad

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Posted By Jim Ellison on December 14, 2007 2:24 PM

Bette’s offers a great two-for-one deal. On the right side is a perfect breakfast and brunch spot with the atmosphere of a classic American diner. On the left side is Bette’s To Go, which offers a wide variety of foods for take-out, including exceptional baked goods. If you cannot get into the diner at least pop in for one vanilla macaroon; these are the best I have ever had.

Opinions differ on whether the place is cozy or cramped. Everyone seems to agree that the wait can be very long for a booth or table, but people keep waiting, and the time spent in line is worth it. Bette’s serves up classic breakfast items as well as some not so traditional morning fare such as huevos rancheros or lox and eggs. Pancakes are one of the major claims to fame here. There are several varieties of perfect pancakes to choose from (buttermilk and buckwheat are local favorites) and if you adore them, you can buy the pancake mix to take home with you. If you want something just a little bit lighter try the California Breakfast: toast, two eggs, perfect homefries, and avocado slices.

For lunch and brunch, there is an array of sandwiches from meatloaf to tuna salad. The sandwiches are served with your choice of four types of fresh bread. There is something good for everyone here.

The interior is classic diner: checkered floors, red vinyl booths, and plenty of art deco ambiance. The staff is friendly and enjoys helping you make a selection from among the many tough choices on the menu. This is a dining destination in Berkley that you should not miss. If you arrive early in the week, you can minimize the wait. If you do have to wait for your table or need to work off a big meal, fill your time by wandering along 4th Street.

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