Eva B's Bakery and Cafe

2407-A South Congress, Austin, TX - (512) 383-9050

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Posted By Michael Stern on March 7, 2008 12:46 PM

Nobody has Roadfood radar as sensitive as Jane. As we headed out of Austin early one morning, she called out "Big Kolache!" In a nondescript strip mall by the side of the road, to which I was completely oblivious, she had spotted a small storefront with a name that demanded attention. The kolache is a Czech-ancestored pastry that once was obscure but now is popular throughout central Texas. In its most typical form, it is like a Danish pastry made with sweet dough and a fruit or cream cheese filling. The Big Kolache serves the fruity ones, but also offers a repertoire of savories: kolaches filled with spinach and mushrooms, sausage or pepperoni, and a "ranchero" combo of ham and pepperjack cheese.

I was especially enamored of the Elgin hot sausage kolache, a wild two-step of muscular smoked beef and tender sweet dough. Even more intriguing was the Elgin sausage-jalapeno kolache, which adds fire to the peppery link swaddled in kolache dough.

Most business at The Big Kolache is take-out, but there are two tables up front for dining in. The counter staff will ask if you want your kolache order heated up. If you say yes, the bagful of everything you have ordered, sweet and savory, is put in the microwave long enough to get hot. Kolache dough is one breadstuff that does not at all suffer from microwave heating. Being soft and mushy to begin with, the instant heating only accentuates its tenderness.

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