Harold's Barbecue - Atlanta, GA

Posted By Michael Stern on March 27, 2002 4:18 AM

How do you find great barbecue in the Deep South? Look for images of pigs, for pork is king in Dixie. Many of the best places have pig-shaped signs, cartoon pictures of pigs on display, and shelves arrayed with pig figurines. If, in addition to porcine décor, the restaurant is conspicuously spiritual – portraits of Jesus and holy homilies on the wall – it is a near certainty that you are about to eat well. In the South’s smoke pits, pigs plus God equals fantastic barbecue.

This is a fact of Roadfood life, we believe, because making great barbecue is a slow and simple process that requires devotion not unlike religious faith. Ask the great pit masters why their pork is so delicious and very few will boast of secret ingredients or unique talents; for the skills of their trade bear little resemblance to the power-driven egos of so many other kinds of chefs. Their gifts are patience and trust in time and in smoke. They speak humbly of their belief in a simple, ancient process by which modest ingredients transcend themselves and become something extraordinary.

Harold’s has proven this theory for more than half a century. One of the South’s grand old smoke pits, it has built its reputation on velvet-soft sliced pork, racks of meaty ribs, and bowls of old-fashioned Brunswick stew. Outside, a cheerful pig in sunglasses occupies the sign by the side of the road – a beacon of comfort in an otherwise scary neighborhood near Atlanta’s federal prison. Although it is a stark building with bars on every window, Harold’s interior has a comforting patina of age and hickory smoke. The wood paneled walls are hung with earnest religious homilies, including this one above the door to the rear dining room: God has time to listen if you have time to pray.

Tables are comfortable, but we much prefer seats at the worn black counter to the right as you enter. Here you see the wood-fired pit, where just-sliced barbecue is heated over hot coals and white bread for sandwiches is toasted until light brown. It is a mesmerizing sight, unchanged for decades.

Sliced pork is velvet-soft, unbelievably tender and fairly glowing with the subtle perfume of wood smoke; pork ribs come as a magnificent rack – ultra-thick, heavily glazed with beguiling sauce, their crusty-lush meat pulling off the bone in messy strips. On the side of any platter come squares of excellent, gritty-textured cornbread and a small bowl of Brunswick stew loaded with meat, corn, and tomato shreds. A couple of items we’ve yet to try off Harold’s menu, but hope to some day: barbecue salad (green salad topped with pork and sauce) and a stew dog (a hot dog blanketed in Brunswick stew).

Denise Hembree Anderson, Harold's granddaughter, recently wrote to let us know that Harold's has two other locations, one on Highway 54 in Jonesboro, Georgia, the other in Kennesaw, Georgia. "We still use the family recipe at all locations," she assured us, the only difference being that the new locations have added homemade apple dumplings to the menu.

Overall Rating

10 out of 10 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By laurie king on August 23, 2011 8:23 PM

We were craving Harold's wonderful Brunswick stew and cracklin' cornbread, so we made the 45 minute drive for lunch. Got there, and the place was almost empty.

We ordered two chopped pork plates and a side of fries. I saw the guy chopping off two hunks of meat from a piece of ham that was sitting on the counter (!) and he recovered it with a dirty towel. Hmmmm. When we got our plates, the Brunswick stew was as I remembered: wonderful, and served with cornbread, minus the cracklins. Our waitress said their supplier had gone out of business, and it was very difficult to get them anymore. Ok, I'm cool so far. Tasted the meat. It was OK. Fries were OK. Cole slaw was warm to room temperature and soggy, meaning it had been sitting out. I didn't venture further with that!

The S&P shakers and everything else on the table was filthy; they had not been wiped off in quite a while. The toilet in the women's room didn't flush. Our check was $28.00 for two BBQ plates! Our waitress said business is way off. Well, no wonder. They really need to clean up their restaurant, and check their prices. I can go to many other places in the Atlanta area that are clean and have good BBQ, and not pay these kind of prices to sit in a filthy restaurant.

Overall Rating

Brunswick stew

cornbread

chopped pork

1 out of 1 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Matthew Metcalfe on September 7, 2009 5:28 PM

Like the other reviewers have commented, Harold's is an "establishment." Immediately upon pulling into the parking lot you realize you are in for something special. The building is decrepit. Heavy bars cover the windows to keep the window units from disappearing overnight. Inside, the place can get downright smoky at times from the pit. Several rooms are all cobbled together; photos of famous visitors adorn the walls. Georgia politicans favor this place as do workers from the Atlanta federal pen down the road.

The only thing, I think, that has changed since they opened is that they had to replace their wooden chopping block with a plastic one. The wooden one had been used for so long it had a pit in the center of it. I suspect it was replaced to comply with health code regulations but I don't go to Harold's for a pristine environment. Bring it back!

The service is quick and polite, the menu is simple, and the food comes out fast. They make an excellent pork that you can get pulled or sliced; beef is served the same way. Their Brunswick stew is outstanding. With fresh corn bread and a sweet tea on the side you have the perfect Southern barbeque plate. For the non-barbecue crowd they have hamburgers and hot dogs.

Harold has passed on but the family still operates the restaurant and they don't appear to have changed anything. Well... except for the chopping block.

Overall Rating

chopped pork

sliced pork

ribs

Brunswick stew

cornbread

5 out of 6 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes

Posted By Paul Pressley on February 29, 2004 3:09 PM

Harold's is as much an Atlanta institution, as The Varsity drive-in. And the food is MUCH better. It's like a slice of country americana, nestled between a Federal pen, and a housing project. Once inside, feel safe. The cops eat at Harold's, and there's a few guns behind the counter, too!

The beef and pork plates (sliced for me), usually come lean and tender. The Brunswick stew is the best I've had, and I think most folks agree, after they have it. The cracklin' cornbread is the real deal, AND a lost art. The stew begs for some. Homemade cole slaw is pretty tasty too, and they even throw ya some 'tator chips for good measure. Coca-Cola or Sweet tea, simply made it a true southern meal.

My one complaint. The sauces. Simply one mild, and one somewhat hotter. Not much different, than a bottle of Frank's hot sauce, you can pick up at Publix. I love how Spice Right BBQ, in Lilburn, has sauces from all southern regions available. It would serve Harold's well.

Something else mighty fine, are the BBQ sandwhiches. Two pieces of white bread, right out of the bag, toasted over a grate. Watch the coals toast the bread, and the grate leave it's mark on the slices. Something else...indeed!

Overall Rating

6 out of 6 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

No Yes