Kreuz Market - Lockhart, TX

Posted By Michael Stern on May 22, 2008 7:16 AM

Kreuz (rhymes with bites) started as a downtown meat market over a century ago, and it was one of the places that defined Texas barbecue. Several years ago, owing to a complicated family feud, it moved out of town (from the place that is now Smitty's) to an immense roadside dining barn with all the charm of an airplane hangar.

But if it lacks the ramshackle ambience of a good old Texas pit, there is absolutely no denying that its slabs of pit-cooked prime rib are among the most carnivorously satisfying foodstuffs on earth. Brisket, sausage, and ribs are all superb. Despite its modern facilities, Kreuz has maintained pit-cook tradition: a limited menu that is meat, bread, and condiments (plus ice cream cones at a separate counter); and tote-your-own service from a ferociously hot pit where meat is sliced to order and sold by the pound.

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Posted By Paul Birinyi on April 9, 2011 2:06 PM

The worst BBQ experience ever! And a very arrogant and flippant staff. My dad and I visited Kreuz BBQ in Lockhart, TX in 4/2011. The place was difficult to find/see from the road despite the overbearing, oversize, and quite touristy new building. The first thing I noticed was the lack of people dining. We ordered our food at 7:40pm after the cashier assured us that they still were serving and that we could stay as long as we would like even after the closing time of 8pm. It was obvious that the butchers desperately wanted us to leave so they could clock out.

When we asked for brisket from the fat side we were served a large chunk of charred fat trimming with no meat marbled in between. Of course this was refused. We ended up ordering a few pounds of beef ribs and brisket. We then proceeded to the next room where the sides are ordered. The staff there was angry they had to reopen the registers at 7:45pm and would not advise us on what to order from the menu.

We did just drive six hours to try this place and wanted to get it right. The only thing they would serve us was a bucket of coleslaw. We finally sat down at 7:55pm to eat our BBQ. When the only other diners left at 8:10pm, we were told in a very rude tone to be gone in five minutes. Three minutes later as we were trying to bag up our $50 of half-eaten BBQ, the lights were turned off, and we were told to GET OUT NOW. The only remaining employee refused to turn the lights back on and called the police. After stumbling through the BBQ house in the dark trying to wipe our hands and grab our meat, the police met with us in the parking lot. This not the typical BBQ experience.

We called the owner the following day, and he told us that we should not need more than 15 minutes to eat. Good BBQ takes time to eat. The owner defended his staff and told us never to come back and that he did not care what we thought. He said he has enough other customers. He then hung up on us.

In the end, I have had better BBQ in Lockhart, in Texas, and around the country. The brisket was flavorful and tender but had a thick, charred, dry crust. The dry rub used on the ribs was simple and very salty. I am a traditionalist and enjoy the lack of sauce, but when it comes to food like this that could use a little assistance, sauce is a must. As for the coleslaw, we ate a few bites but could not get past its aroma and the taste. Of course, there was no one to talk to about the slaw. In fact, the owner would not hear anything of it the following day.

My Dad and I have traveled all over Texas and the country in pursuit of great BBQ. This place is not recommended. I have never had an experience in any BBQ place as bad as this one.

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Posted By Will Lovell on July 8, 2008 8:27 PM

Texas Monthly rated it one of the top five BBQ joints in Texas; however, I wouldn't rank it in the top 100, at least on the day I went. I know people have posted pictures of succulent brisket and other great-looking meats, but I have to say it was a disappointing stop.

To give them some credit, their sausages were great. However, Texas BBQ should be rated based on the brisket. The brisket I got was crunchy and more like bad beef jerky. You could still taste the smoke and get an idea of what was intended, but when I get brisket, I think it should be soft and succulent. It should not crumble in your mouth. The other beef products were tough and dry. I did not get to sample the ribs as they had run out.

If you're driving through town, grab some sausage and admire their pits, but look at what everyone else has on their plate before ordering the brisket because mine was left on the pit way too long.

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