Old Hickory House - Charlotte, NC

Posted By Michael Stern on December 23, 2008 5:48 PM

It's ironic that the interior decoration of the Old Hickory House Restaurant is cowboy-western: pine-paneled walls festooned with longhorn racks and cowpuncher's tools. Although the Texas-style barbecued beef comes highly recommended -- and I will try it someday, for sure -- what's truly compelling from this smoke pit is classic Carolinian: slow-smoked pork butts that get sliced (very good) or chopped (sensational) and very judiciously sauced with a cinnabar emulsion that has a shot of pepper, a twist of lemon, the twang of vinegar, and who-knows-what other spices. It comes in sandwiches or on partitioned plates along with a couple of side dishes and a basket of double-thick Texas toast.

Two of the side dishes deserve serious attention. The beans are not just baked; they are infused with hickory flavor and some of that sauce, delivering the sweet legume punch that goes so well with hickory barbecue. And the Brunswick stew is marvelous. It, too, has a smoky edge, and it is thick with meat as well as corn and beans -- a whole meal in a bowl, especially when accompanied by an order of Old Hickory's supercrunchy hushpuppies.

Located on a road of muffler shops, filling stations, and B-list discount stores, the Old Hickory House sends out vibes no Roadfood-hungry traveler can ignore. For one thing, its somber brick façade has no windows in it whatsoever, giving it an all-business attitude. For another, the back chimney above the pit, from which burning-wood perfume emanates all day long, is quite literally dripping with essence of barbecue: smoke that has condensed on its surfaces over so long a time that it has created charcoal stalactites that hang from its edges.

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Posted By Jennifer C on January 26, 2011 1:59 PM

For everyone's information, the meat is 100% cooked on the pit. After spending time in the freezer overnight, they bring it back out to heat it up. The meat is cooked slowly for several hours over the wood. The workers there never claim it is Lexington-style or Eastern-style. It's more Georgia/Alabama style. It is wonderful barbecue if you are not hard core Lexington-style, which is very much vinegar-based. They have tomato and vinegar in their sauce, and it is nice and tangy.

The Brunswick stew is delicious! As are the beans.

Overall Rating

Barbecue Plate (small)

Barbecue Sandwich

Brunswick Stew

Hushpuppies

Texas Toast

One Pound of Pork

Large Beef Plate

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Posted By Reagan on October 27, 2010 12:19 PM

If you ever pass down hwy 85 through Charlotte NC, Then there is no reason why you shouldn't stop by and take a taste of the good Old Hickory House. I've lived here most of my life and there was no other Bar-B-Q place my mother whould take her family. Their bar-b-q standwiches and bar-b-g beans are to die for. DOnt let the picture thats submited to this resturant fool you. The bar-b-g does not come drinched in bar-b-q sause, it comes the way bar-b-q is suposed to come try adding slaw to your sandwich it's 30 cents more but you wont regret it. All my friends and family have memories of walking into this timeless resturant. Its like walking back in time to when I was a 4 year old. Old Hickory House never gets old. Everytime I eat there I always order a sandwich togo. Dont get descuraged by the sause in the picture, it dosent need it...

Overall Rating

Barbecue Plate (small)

Barbecue Sandwich

Hushpuppies

One Pound of Pork

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Posted By John on October 25, 2010 9:49 PM

I work near the Old Hickory House and love to visit for lunchtiime whenever possible. The service is fast, wait staff very friendly and knowledgeable and the food...well it is fabulous! This may not be true NC BBQ ala Lexington style, but it is absolutely delicious! If you are in the mood for more than your moneys worth "bbq viddles" head on over to Old Hickory House and enjoy!

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One Pound of Pork

Large Beef Plate

Barbecue Plate (small)

Barbecue Sandwich

Texas Toast

Brunswick Stew

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Posted By Brent Kulman on January 9, 2009 3:10 PM

There is nothing "classic Carolinian" about Old Hickory House. If you look at the picture of the BBQ plate, you can see from the saucing that this is not Carolina BBQ, neither Eastern nor Lexington style. If I recall correctly, the owners characterize this as Georgia-style BBQ. There is a chunk of Texas thrown in too, with the Texas toast served with the meat.

I have never been a big fan of this restaurant, having patronized it several times over the years, just to make sure. I just don't care for the sauce, although I think they make a pretty decent Brunswick stew (which again, you will find in Georgia).

While they do use wood in the cooking process, I believe it is to finish the meat, not to smoke it. You can see the cooking area; they place the meat over the burning logs which is not the classic NC style.

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