Windmill Restaurant

Posted By Michael Stern on September 12, 2007 11:09 PM

There is some debate among Windmill’s most devoted culinary fans as to whether it’s better to dine mid-day or late-night. The decision is based on the condition of the hot dogs on the grill. Some people believe they are plumper, juicier, and better early in the day. Others contend that it’s the all-day slow-sizzle that gives these hot dogs their special character, which is attained only by the start of cocktail hour.

The truth is that great numbers of regular customers of the Windmill pay no attention to the status of the hot dogs. Many people come to this 1930s-era bar not to eat, but for a friendly beer and a game of pool at the table in back, or maybe to listen to music in the adjoining room with its small bandstand. The nostalgia quotient at the Windmill is immense. During the day, light filters in through glass brick windows that suffuse the rooms with the magic glow of a neighborhood corner tavern that looks impervious to modern life.

While some folks come to eat such excellent hot-lunch specials as pot roast, stuffed cabbage, meat loaf, and wiener schnitzel, those of us who are hot dog connoisseurs come strictly for Windmill hot dogs. They are spicy dogs that get nestled in big soft buns under a load of sauerkraut, onions, and delightfully pickly chili; and they are modest-sized enough that three make a fine lunch, with a couple of glasses of draught beer.

The way you get your dogs is to step up to the hot-dog counter towards the back of the restaurant at the far end of the bar. There, you tell Rudy, the boss, what you want. Rudy is a tall, quiet grill maestro who manage to keep the folks at the bar happy as well as tend the hot dogs (and the larger bratwursts and kielbasas). This is a man who can put one in a bun and dress it with the aplomb of Bob Mackey dressing a superstar for Oscar night.

hot dog

kielbasa

pot roast

Wiener Schnitzel