Pastels Bistro

860 Tecopa Hot Springs Road, Tecopa, CA - (760) 852-4505

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Posted By Julie Cason on April 1, 2009 12:46 PM

If you have ever been near or in Death Valley, CA, you know that it is an assault on the senses--dry, dusty, desolate--with services few and far between. Tecopa Hot Springs, which is nestled between the southeastern edge of Death Valley and the even more desolate Nevada desert to the east, is a true oasis: it is there you will find a restaurant run by an award-winning chef who fled Las Vegas' scene 80 miles away.

Pastels Bistro is a bright blue gem sparkling against the pale white sandstone desert that stretches for what seems like a million miles in every direction. Locals and visitors alike chat across tables and with the lone (but very competent) waitress. The chef is visible through the order pick-up window and happy to chat about the menu, which changes weekly, depending on what produce is fresh and available. (And, since you've driven here across miles of nothing, you shake your head in amazement that anything fresh is even available.)

This was our last stop before heading home and we were running low on cash (not a lot of ATMs in the desert). Be forewarned: Pastels Bistro only accepts cash. So, our eating was limited to $12.50 (or less) entrees (with side salad) and water in Mason jars. Would've really liked to have tried the deep-dish peach pie, but I digress.

The Brazilian black beans entree (at $9; add kielbasa or chicken for $3.50 more) was an exquisitely executed dish--every taste and texture was represented and balanced. For every creamy yin of avocado, there was the yang bite of raw onion. The creamy, slow-cooked and richly seasoned beans were enlivened by the unusually tangy cheese and fresh salsa. The snap and smoky grilled fat of the kielbasa was undergirded by the chewy, nutty brown rice. Every morsel was to be savored. And my partner's eggplant lasagna was also perfectly executed--the chef knows pasta.

Every group of diners that departed told every new group what they just *had* to have--the eggs Benedict, the corn fritters, etc., etc. It seems as if every dish on the menu is someone's favorite--and that menu keeps changing. Such a delightful combination of comfort food and cuisine--in the most unlikely of settings--makes this restaurant worth a day's drive if you're in the area.

Overall Rating

Brazilian Black Beans with Kielbasa

Eggplant Lasagna

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