Metro Grill

Town East Square Mall, Wichita, KS - (316) 686-2255

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Posted By Joe Seiwert on August 25, 2009 3:27 PM

Can a Roadfood-worthy restaurant be found in the food court of an aging indoor mall? Amidst a cacophony of commerce and crying kids, elderly mallwalkers, and bad-humored teens, stranger things have happened. The incongruity of finding a great meal of Roadfood quality amidst a sea of fast food and chain stores makes the find that much better.

Michael Gonzalez, the owner and everything-doer, cooks top-quality pastas and sandwiches in a small kiosk in the food court outside the local Sears Roebuck. One day, Michael hopes to have a sit-down restaurant outside the mall, but for now he prepares fresh and tasty meals to the lost souls in search of a little retail happiness.

It is amazing how he does it, and watching him is part of the fun. He has perfected a one-hand cooking technique that allows him to handle food with his gloved left hand, while handling all non-food surfaces and cash transactions with his ungloved right hand. If you watch carefully, he never strays from keeping the "food" hand clear of contamination, while never using the "money" hand to touch a food surface. What could the guy do with two hands?!

But such parlor tricks are not the reason to eat here--it's the food, where the salads and pastas would not be out of place at an establishment aspiring to Michelin status. The sandwiches, from Chicago-style hot dogs to "the infamous Bob" (whose ingredients include french fries) are also fresh and delicious. Cuban sandwiches are a featured item. Specials like tomato mozzarella Caprese and desserts of tiramisu and homemade cannoli raise this humble kiosk to the level of a destination.

Even for mall-o-phobes, the Metro Grill makes this descent into what must be one of the circles of hell worthwhile.

Overall Rating

Mango Mahi

VIP Pasta with Sausage

Cuban Sandwich

The Infamous Bob Sandwich

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