De Lorenzo's Tomato Pies

2350 US-33, Robbinsville, NJ - (609) 341-8480

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Posted By Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle on September 1, 2009 10:41 AM

Start with one of America's finest pizza makers: De Lorenzo's Tomato Pies on Hudson Street in Trenton, NJ. Add a selection of salads and a bathroom (there is none at Hudson). What do you get? De Lorenzo's Tomato Pies in Robbinsville, NJ. Yes, Robbinsville may be the suburbs, and the new restaurant sure is spacious and modern, but the pizzas that emerge from those ovens are identical to the ones served on Hudson Street.

Trenton's version of Little Italy (The Burg) is no more, or rather, to be more precise, The Burg still exists but it is no longer Italian. Almost every Italian restaurant in the neighborhood has closed up shop, many having moved to modern digs in the suburbs. The original De Lorenzo remains open for now, although their operating hours have been curtailed since this new branch opened last year. That original, founded by the late Chick De Lorenzo, is now operated by Chick's daughter, Eileen Amico, and her husband Gary. Their son Sam runs the new Robbinsville store.

These world-class tomato pies are built upon extremely thin, crisp crusts. Canned tomatoes are used, not tomato sauce. There's no hail of dried herbs here, just tomatoes, a modest amount of cheese, the toppings of your choice, and oil. The philosophy is balance, not extravagance. Toppings are applied sparingly; don't expect pizzas weighted down with pounds of meats and cheeses. We know people who consider one large pie per person about right.

Sam has added a few new topping options to the menu. You can now get things like fresh basil, artichokes, and roasted peppers, but our favorite toppings still include the juicy, chunky sausage and toothsome thick-sliced pepperoni. White pies with broccoli or spinach are also recommended.

As in many of the great pizzerias, salads have been added to the menu, and these are not mere formalities. They do a terrific job with salads, and we've enjoyed all kinds of seasonal combinations of pristine greens topped with things like juicy fresh blackberries, perfectly ripe and sweet heirloom tomatoes, sharp cheese, and toasted pine nuts.

De Lorenzo is open for lunch four days a week and dinner six days a week but, no matter which day you go, expect to wait for a table if you arrive at a normal mealtime (they do not take reservations). If you really don't like to wait the best approach is to arrive when they open, 11 am for lunch, 4 pm for dinner, when you should be able to waltz right to a table. They do not have a liquor license (a scarce commodity in New Jersey).

Overall Rating

Large Tomato Pie

Pizza Toppings

Seasonal Salad

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