Los Abuelos

Posted By Katherine Curry on July 22, 2010 8:30 AM

When you're driving through Ossining, it's easy to miss this small, no-frills Mexican restaurant. The location is quirky--perched on sloping Highland Avenue inside a stand-alone house across from Ossining's Recreation Center building--and diners must climb several steps to reach the front door. The trek is worth it -- owner Olga Bonilla is serving excellent, authentic Mexican food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week.

I've sampled everything from huevos rancheros to ceviche de mariscos at Los Abuelos, and it's all been fresh and delicious. But what I find irresistible on the menu are the soft tacos, in particular the chicken tacos. Sometimes Olga persuades me to try something new (the enchiladas with mole poblano were yummy), but I usually end up with my old stand-by, and that's what I suggest for your first visit to Los Abuelos.

The tacos come with a double layer of warm soft tortillas, a sprinkling of onions, and your chosen meat, which is finely chopped and cooked on the grill so that it acquires deliciously crispy edges. The whole thing is then topped with a grilled cactus pad and a grilled spring onion. A squeeze of lime juice is all these tacos need, or you can add a spoonful of salsa verde or roja. On the side: refried beans and rice, which often play second fiddle, but here they are good as the entrees they accompany: simple, fresh, flavorful.

By the way, taco meat choices include lengua (beef tongue, not my favorite), chorizo, and carne enchilada (spicy pork). Los Abuelos has six kinds of soup, all big enough for three people, including pancita (tripe soup) and pozole. There are fajitas, tortas, shrimp dishes, chilaquiles, and terrific griddle-fried huaraches (try them topped with the nopales salad).

Chicken Tacos

Guacamole and Tortilla Chips

Chorizo Tacos

Quesadillas