Grits & Gravy

200 E. Washington St., Suffolk, VA - (757) 539-5565

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Posted By Michael Stern on December 30, 2010 1:17 PM

Maurice Wilson, the cuisinier who created a foodie buzz at the casual storefront cafe in Suffolk called Grits & Gravy, has moved on; and the menu advises that the restaurant is now under new management, billing itself as Dale & Andrea's Grits & Gravy. Still, many of Chef Maurice's dishes remain; and while we never tasted his version of the potato chip encrusted crab cake, it's hard to imagine it was much better than the current one. A thick patty of big-flavored crab, seasoned just enough to halo the sweet meat itself, is entirely enclosed in the salt-earth crunch of chips and crowned with tart Granny Smith apple slaw. Brilliant!

Collard greens are a pork-infused classic; the mac & cheese is over-the-top cheesy, each forkful retrieving not only noodles but long strings of hot sharp cheddar. Among other available side dishes are fried plantains, stew potatoes and stew tomatoes, yams, and corn on the cob. Not all are available every day; and the same is true of entrees. I did not have the opportunity to sample the intriguing item listed on the menu simply as Yock, which, based on the waiter's description, is none other than the soul-food-Chinese-restaurant cure-all that elsewhere goes by the name ya-ka-mein. Nor was herring fish with hash browns available.

Three meals a day are served (and the restaurant specializes in take-out and delivery). Breakfast remains to be tried – mackerel cakes, anyone? – and I also look forward to having the fried whiting sandwich, rotisserie chicken, and barbecue. And, of course, grits and gravy.

Overall Rating

Potato Chip Encrusted Crabcake

Collard Greens

Macaroni & Cheese

Ice Tea

Flantastic Home Cake

Sweet Potato Pie

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Posted By robin on October 13, 2011 3:48 PM

We arrived for some grits and gravy at around 12:30 and were told that breakfast ended at 12pm. After looking at the menu I selected the fried shrimp and fish special. The shrimp looked and tasted as if they had been previously steamed or boiled before they battered them. They were tough and flavorless. The batter on both the fish and shrimp was soggy; even the french fries were limp.

I believe that the fryer temp may be too low or the food was not allowed to stay in the fryer long enough. The fish is supposed to be the star of the show here and maybe I was there on an off day, but it was lackluster at best. It could have been great if they used local shrimp, maybe even some local flounder or catfish, and a crunchy cornmeal or beer batter might have improved things.

I love the space and what they are trying to do. I will be back for breakfast with my fingers crossed.

Overall Rating

Fried Fish

Fried Shrimp

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