Posted by Michael Stern on May 20, 2008
For the first time in a decade, we walked into Fuller’s Coffee Shop the other day … and saw a framed cover of our earlier guidebook, Eat Your Way Across the USA, hung on the wall. It was displayed there because Fuller’s used to be one of our favorite recommended restaurants in Portland, Oregon. But we left it out of Roadfood because it had been so long since we were there, we didn’t know if it was still forkworthy. We are delighted to report that it’s exactly the way it used to be.
As a matter of fact, a man sitting near us at one of the two U-shaped Formica counters mopped the last of some yolk off his plate with a forkful of pancake and declared that he used to eat at Fuller’s nearly every day thirty-two years ago, and as far as he could see, nothing’s changed but the prices.
“This is a diner where they know how to fry bacon!” the man declared. Yes, indeed. An order of bacon here is four medium-thick ribbons that are crisp but retain enough pliability so they don’t break at first bite. And the hash browns are a short-order delight, fried so they are a mix of golden crust and soft, spuddy shreds of buttery potato. The pancakes are good, too; and the cinnamon roll, baked fresh each day, is yeasty and tender.
Our favorite thing at Fuller’s is the bread. It’s not artisan bread; it’s not fancy at all. You get white or whole wheat. These slices are simple and perfect, especially so when toasted and buttered and accompanying a big, well-rounded breakfast. Jelly and marmalade are set out in ramekins along the counter.
Lunch consists of such blue plate specials as hot beef and gravy (on the good bread) with mashed potatoes and a corned beef sloppy Joe. There is always interesting seafood: salmon steaks in season, batter-dipped fish and chips, fresh-fried oysters, and big, slightly scary (but easy to eat) egg-battered, fried razor clams with French fries and cole slaw.
Off the tourist path but loved by locals, Fuller's is not only prime Portland; it is a taste of the sort of high-quality urban hash house now nearly vanished from most American cities.
Overall: Worth driving from anyplace
16 out of 16 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?
Reviewers "Must Eats" List
French Toast
($5.00)
Omelet
($7.00)
Hot Beef Sandwich
($5.00)
Marionberry Pie
($4.00)
Cinnamon Roll
($2.00)
Pig In A Blanket
($7.00)
Coffee
($1.00)
Razor Clams
($7.00)
"Actually, the toast comes on a separate plate, but we arranged it around everything else for the picture's sake. Note the crisp bacon ... and the crusty but soft hash browns. This is the way we like to start our day!"
Michael Stern
"I was never offered a bite (and honestly was too busy with my bacon and cheese omelet), but this dish was photo-worthy for sure. The syrup came heated, a nice and rare touch."
gkwclassic
"Good coffee is a Portland hallmark. Fuller's serves it in abundance. Buy one cup, get refills throughout the meal."
Michael Stern
"There are no tables at Fuller's. Its two U-shaped counters make for speedy service and a quiet sense of camaradarie among customers and staff. Here the waitress refills a coffee cup."
Michael Stern
"This great, old neon clock hangs behind the cash register and adds to the genuine coffee shop atmosphere."
buffetbuster
"Fuller's wall gallery includes the cover of
Eat Your Way Across the USA, an earlier guide book in which we called it "a simple place, easy to love.""
Michael Stern
"A very inconspicuous place in an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood now known as The Pearl District, Fuller's is a steady beacon of good eats."
Michael Stern
