Posted by Michael Stern on February 27, 2000
The County Line is a chain of twelve barbecue restaurants in Texas, Oklahoma, and Colorado. We’ve tried only one – the Oklahoma County Line – and we love it! Just a few blocks down from the Cowboy Hall of Fame (the Big Daddy of all Frontier museums), it is a vast and comfortable eater’s destination with an atmosphere reminiscent of a vintage roadhouse. Art on the walls includes blow-ups of beguiling advertisements featuring Hollywood’s biggest movie stars of days gone by, and the spacious dining areas are ringed by a string of small individual dining rooms for those who want to whoop it up in private.
The County Line menu is a full roster of smokehouse fare, including butter-soft baby back ribs, hefty beef ribs with a luscious crusty savor, slow-cooked brisket infused with the taste of hardwood smoke, taut discs of plump sausage, plus peppered turkey and smoked chicken. You can get just one meat or a sample platter with some of everything; side dishes include potato salad, cole slaw, spicy beans, and freshly baked white and whole wheat bread that is utterly delicious as bread, but even more perfect for mopping sauce from a plate. The sauce, by the way, is superb: peppery and sweet, and hot enough to leave your tongue with a delightful BBQ afterglow.
Many regular customers come to County Line to eat “country style,” which means that everyone at the table pays a flat rate (currently $13.95 for adults) and the waitstaff brings platters of everything for as long as people keep eating.

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"The combined aroma of smoke, pork, and beef hovers over this plate like a come-hither perfume."
Michael Stern
"Meat + Smoke = Good Eats"
Michael Stern