Posted by Michael Stern on August 22, 2001
Jerry's "white Sicilian" is a wonder of the pizza world. Baked in a square pan, it has a crust that is medium-thick, rising up in glistening, oil-gilded golden puffs around the edge. It's got a bit of crunch at its surface, and at the outermost edges, it is brittle; but in the center of the pie, it is a lush pillow of taut, yeasty bread. Atop it is spread a finely chopped melange of garlic, anchovies, and fresh parsley, plus a spritz of oil and a dust of Parmesan. That's all there is on a white Sicilian, and it is pizza pie paradise.
How well we remember the time we asked Jerry if he could make a white Sicilian with anchovies only on half to satisfy an anchovy-phobe among us. He answered simply, no, he could not make a white Sicilian any way other than the right way. Then when the pie came to the table he pointed to one quarter and explained that he had indeed tried to make part of it as we wanted, without the anchovies. Jerry Schiano is that kind of guy – a real sweetheart. However, we've got to warn you that the part without evidence of actual pulverized anchovies still had their distinctive salty smack. In fact, the whole shoebox-shaped restaurant smelled of anchovies and garlic once our pie emerged from the oven. And after eating it, we, too, smelled like a pizzeria (a great pizzeria) the rest of the day.
Jerry's makes other things: thin-crust pizzas, whole or by the slice; foot-and-a-half hot oven grinders (eggplant parmigiana is especially lovely); and plates of unstylish red-sauced spaghetti. But the white Sicilian is Jerry's triumph. Warning: It takes ninety minutes from the time it's begun -- Jerry has to let the crust rise slowly, he explains; so it is best to call ahead to place an order or plan some interesting activity while you wait … such as driving to O'Rourke's Diner or Ted’s and having a few cheeseburger hors d'oeuvre.
Overall: Worth driving from anyplace
8 out of 8 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?
Reviewers "Must Eats" List
Pizza Margherita (small)
($10.00)
The White Sicilian
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"Too bad there's no computer hardware that allows for cybersniffing. The garlic-anchovy aroma of this white Sicilian pizza is dizzying."
Michael Stern
"As I walked in, this pepperoni and meatball pizza was coming out of the oven. What a good-looking pie. Note the typically Connecticut crust, verging on burnt at its high points. The staff told me that meatballs are a very popular option."
Michael Stern
"Pizza historians say that pizza Margherita -- the colors of the Italian flag -- was the original configuration. At its best, it is an elemental treasure made with slices of mozzarella rather than grated cheese. At Jerry's, it looks right but lacks character."
Michael Stern
"The interior of the new location. That's Jerry himself sitting at the table on the right of the photo. His head is in his hands because he is snoozing, although to me he looks sad. Perhaps because the pizza made by his progeny doesn't measure up?"
Michael Stern
"The old Jerry's had little in the way of neighborhood charm. The new Jerry's continues that tradition, located in a small strip mall across the street from a Chevrolet dealer."
Michael Stern
"This is the old Jerry's on Route 66. It has sinced moved to Main Street."
Michael Stern
