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Hell's Kitchen

90 S. 9th St., Minneapolis, MN - (612) 332-4700
Posted By Michael Stern on 10/25/2012 12:46:00 PM
Hell's Kitchen serves three meals a day, each of which is terrific, but if you must come only once, make it breakfast. It is hard to choose among the likes of lemon ricotta hotcakes, cornmeal waffles, and huevos rancheros that is a huge plate of food that includes rosti potatoes along with spicy beans, eggs, cheeses, sour cream, and fresh salsa on a crisp flour tortilla. With a toasted baguette or sausage bread, you'll love chef Mitch Omer's spectacular fruit preserves and toasty peanut butter. On the side, there's great pit ham or thick bacon or discs of bison sausage that is sweet and gamey unlike any ordinary breakfast meat.

The roesti potatoes are available as a dish unto themselves, and they are less like the Swiss spuds that are their namesake than they are glorified hash browns, the shreds of potato mixed with bacon, sweet onions, chives, and scallions and grilled in sweet cream butter. No matter what else you get, someone at the table must order the glorious few other breakfast specialties: lemon ricotta hotcakes, extra-spicy quarter-pound caramel pecan roll featuring extra-crunchy pieces of nut and a refined glaze that is a sweet tooth's dream.

Probably the most unusual and perhaps the most delicious dish on the breakfast menu is Mahnomin Porridge, a recipe that the promethean Mr. Omer came up with from reading accounts of native Cree Indian meals that featured wild rice. His version includes nuts and berries and is sopped with a warm slurry of maple syrup and heavy cream.

For lunch, choices include a walleye BLT made with cornmeal-dusted filets and lemon tartar sauce instead of the homemade mayo the kitchen uses on its regular BLT. Bauhaus appetites will enjoy an item known simply as the Bread Bucket, which is all the chewy, freshly-made baguette you can eat served along with fantastic homemade marmalade, ginger-berry preserves, and that amazing peanut butter.

Rather than rave on, let us simply say that if you are in Minneapolis and want to wow your taste buds, go to Hell's Kitchen. It is inspired and inspiring.

37 out of 38 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Mahnomin Porridge
Bison Sausage
Caramel Pecan Roll
Toasted Sausage Bread
Huevos Rancheros
Grilled Pit Ham
Rosti Potatoes
Coffee
Peanut Butter
Cornmeal Waffle
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

Chef Omer told us that he learned the recipe for his luxurious caramel rolls from his father. In a city full of excellent caramel rolls, this is the one to eat if you are having only one.
"Chef Omer told us that he learned the recipe for his luxurious caramel rolls from his father. In a city full of excellent caramel rolls, this is the one to eat if you are having only one."
Michael Stern





Mitch Omer's gloss on Native American cooking, this porridge is made from Minnesota wild rice, blueberries, cranberries, and hazlenuts all moistened with a mix of warm maple syrup and cream. To call it comfort food understates its delicious complexity, but it is indeed a bowl of comfort. This is the smaller 'sampler cup' rather than a full-size bowl.
"Mitch Omer's gloss on Native American cooking, this porridge is made from Minnesota wild rice, blueberries, cranberries, and hazlenuts all moistened with a mix of warm maple syrup and cream. To call it comfort food understates its delicious complexity, but it is indeed a bowl of comfort. This is the smaller 'sampler cup' rather than a full-size bowl."
Michael Stern


In the background are homemade marmalade and ginger-berry preserves. Up front is an amazing peanut butter for which the kitchen roasts its own peanuts and coarse-grinds them with a bit of honey and brown sugar. The result is a sweet-savory condiment we want to spread on just about everything.
"In the background are homemade marmalade and ginger-berry preserves. Up front is an amazing peanut butter for which the kitchen roasts its own peanuts and coarse-grinds them with a bit of honey and brown sugar. The result is a sweet-savory condiment we want to spread on just about everything."
Michael Stern


One of the nicest things on which to spread Hell's Kitchen peanut butter -- or simply to eat toasted with or without butter -- is this dense bread that is faintly infused with the flavor of bison sausage, nuts, spice, and coffee.
"One of the nicest things on which to spread Hell's Kitchen peanut butter -- or simply to eat toasted with or without butter -- is this dense bread that is faintly infused with the flavor of bison sausage, nuts, spice, and coffee."
Michael Stern


The most deluxe hash browns you could ever imagine: rosti potatoes, laced with bits of smoky bacon and onions and sizzled in butter.
"The most deluxe hash browns you could ever imagine: rosti potatoes, laced with bits of smoky bacon and onions and sizzled in butter."
Michael Stern


Very light lemon taste that blends well with the fresh fruit topping.  No syrup needed.
"Very light lemon taste that blends well with the fresh fruit topping. No syrup needed."
Elaine Boggs


There are so many excellent breakfast meats available here, it's hard to choose. The rugged, high-spiced bison sausage is a tongue-dazzler and the apple-cured bacon is sliced extra-thick. We love the pit ham, too, a half-order of which is shown here. Ham this good is rare indeed outside the South.
"There are so many excellent breakfast meats available here, it's hard to choose. The rugged, high-spiced bison sausage is a tongue-dazzler and the apple-cured bacon is sliced extra-thick. We love the pit ham, too, a half-order of which is shown here. Ham this good is rare indeed outside the South."
Michael Stern


Huevos rancheros is a mountain of Mexican-accented food that is breakfast enough for two.
"Huevos rancheros is a mountain of Mexican-accented food that is breakfast enough for two."
Michael Stern


The restaurant has plenty of attitude, but don't be fooled... they take their food seriously.
"The restaurant has plenty of attitude, but don't be fooled... they take their food seriously."
Cynthia Gerdes


Bison sausage is coarse-ground and chewy, perfumed with spice.
"Bison sausage is coarse-ground and chewy, perfumed with spice."
Michael Stern


Coffee is served in glass mugs that are refilled throughout the meal.
"Coffee is served in glass mugs that are refilled throughout the meal."
Michael Stern


Fruit is optional on the cornmeal waffle, but highly recommended. Butter and syrup are completely unnecessary.
"Fruit is optional on the cornmeal waffle, but highly recommended. Butter and syrup are completely unnecessary."
Michael Stern



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