Bogue’s

Every city needs a Bogue’s — the place to go for hearty breakfast, endless coffee, and waitresses who give no quarter. It has moved from its old location, where pea green walls and well-worn upholstered booths gave it vintage diner appeal, but country charm and southern hospitality endure. Even upgraded, Bogue’s remains a downhome treasure.

While the meat-and-three lunches, served cafeteria-style, can be excellent, breakfast is the meal that feels most right here. Bogue’s biscuits are endowed with enough grease that your fingers will glisten after you split one in half, and the bottom gets as crusty-brown as a deep-fried potato. These biscuits make great companions to breakfasts in which eggs are only minor players on plates of pork chops or country ham or just a huge spill of pepper gravy and, of course, lots of grits. If for some reason you don’t want biscuits, we highly recommend the sweet rolls. “Are they made here?” we ask our waitress.

“Every morning,” she reassures us, and, without being asked, bringing us Tabasco sauce for a plate of eggs.